| Native American Culture in Santa Fe County |
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They are called the First Peoples, and for many, a visit to Santa Fe County’s Indian Country is a priority excursion. Four Native American Pueblos are situated within County limits, providing genuine experiences of New Mexico’s indigenous culture. Head north of the City to visit the close-by Pueblos of Tesuque, Nambe, and Pojoaque. San Ildefonso Pueblo, home of exquisite black-on-black pottery, and the archeologically grand Tsankawi, part of Bandelier National Monument, are a short and scenic drive to the west. If you are fortunate enough to be visiting on a feast day, do not miss the opportunity to observe the living Native American cosmology. (Please be reminded that photography, sketching and audio recording are prohibited on most Pueblos, and subject to permission and payment to a fee on others. Inquire in advance.) For many visitors, the first encounter with the Pueblo people comes through supporting the entrepreneurial efforts of the Tesuque tribe by visiting the Tesuque Pueblo Flea Market. The Flea Market is a favorite destination for locals too, a treasure trove where one can find everything from clothing to rugs, bedazzling jewelry — of both the heirloom and cosmetic variety – and just about everything else you can imagine. The Tesuque Village Flea Market is open on Friday through Sunday from mid-March through November (dates are approximate; call first: 505-995-8626.) To reach the Flea Market, head north out of town on 84/285, drive past the Santa Fe Opera exit, then turn off at the Tesuque Flea Market exit. Tesuque Pueblo is one of the smallest in New Mexico, is located among the stunning reddish foothills of the Sangre de Cristo (“Blood of Christ”) mountains of the Southern Rockies. Tesuque is a laid-back reservation—not surprising for a place that has, according to archeologists, stood intact since 1200 A.D. Tesque’s full name is “Te Tsugeh Oweengeh,” meaning the “Village of the Narrow Place of Cottonwood Trees,” and these trees provide shady respite to the just over 800 people of the Tewa tribe who live there. The Tesuque people have played a profound role in New Mexico’s history, and they observe their traditions with pride and reverence. Tourists are only invited to witness ceremonial dances on select feast days; these include: the annual Feast Day of San Diego, on November 12, dances on Christmas and Three Kings Days, and a Corn Dance in June. The Pueblo is off NM-285/84, at a turn-off near the aptly named Camel Rock — a natural formation that looks like a giant camel head jutting out of the sandstone. Specifically: from NM 285/84, turn left at NP 806 for half a mile and then turn right at NP 800. It is prudent to call ahead of visiting the Pueblo, as it is sometimes closed to the public: (505) 983-2667, (505) 988-3620 or (800) 483-1040. Camel Rock Casino, (http://www.camelrockcasino.com) operated by the Pueblo, is easily visible from the main highway. The Pueblo is near the Village of Tesuque, a haven of green amidst the reds and browns of Northern New Mexico, described in the Sporty/Artsy Santa Fe County itinerary. (insert link) From Tesuque, continue north on 84/285 to Pojoaque Pueblo. Pojoaque is home to the modern Poeh Cultural Center, a well-organized complex dedicated to culture of the Tewa-speaking peoples of Nambe, Pojoaque, San Ildefonso, Tesuque and other Pueblo peoples. The Poeh Center was established in 1988 as an educational venue showcasing Pueblo artists. In addition the gallery, the Cultural Center houses an information center and Northern New Mexico’s largest Indian arts and crafts shop. Dances for the public are hosted on most weekends. The Poeh Museum, part of the Cultural Center, showcases contemporary, historical, and archaeological works, and provides exhibits and demonstrations to help visitors understand the linkages between the historic and the contemporary, and the evolving and living nature of today’s Pueblo people and culture. For those who are traveling Santa Fe County’s Indian Country outside of Feast Days, the Poeh Center is an excellent introduction to Pueblo culture. Modern takes on traditional Pueblo cuisine are served at the stylish Ô Eating House (http://www.citiesofgold.com/dining/o-eating-house), open seasonally (1-800-455-3313). If scheduling permits, take note of Pojoaque Pueblo’s Feast Days and dances: December 12, the Feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe, or Three Kings Day (January 6). Entrepreneurial-minded, like their neighbors in Tesuque, the Pojoaque people operate the snazzy Towa Golf course, 505-455-3466, www.towagolf.com), own the recently opened Buffalo Thunder Resort and Casino, as well as the Cities of Gold Casino. Next to the Pueblo of Pojoaque lies the eponymous village, which is transected by the Pojoaque River. To some, this river may seem like a meager stream, but like all waterways, it is an integral part of life for the community, sustaining agriculture and wildlife, and the creative souls of those who live by it. These three features come to a happy convergence each mid-September, with the celebration of the annual Pojoaque River Studio Tour (http://www.pojoaqueriverarttour.com/index.php). During the Tour, a large grouping of local open their doors to the public, displaying styles, both contemporary and traditional. The next stop after Pojoaque is Nambé Pueblo, definitely worth the side trip. Head north on 84/285, turning right at Cundiyo Rd/NM-503, right again at County Rd-119 N, right once more at County Rd-84G, and slightly left on County Rd-119 S. Established in the 1300s, Nambé Pueblo continues to play an important role as a religious center for New Mexico’s Pueblo people. It also provides a much-welcomed watery oasis in the high desert through its Nambé Lake Recreation Area. The Nambé people are renowned for the quality of their black-on-black and white-on-red pottery and elegant silver jewelry. Along the road to Nambé Pueblo you will find these crafts for sale by Indian artists. Even if not visiting during a Feast Day, visitors can enjoy guided tours of the Pueblo, viewings of the tribe’s sacred buffalo herds, and a performance by the youthful Buffalo Dancers, by calling the logically named Buffalo Tours: (505) 455-2036. At the Pueblo itself, photography and sketching are permitted, upon payment of a fee. Nambé’s Saint Francis of Assisi Feast Day takes place on October 4. The “Celebration of the Waterfall” takes place on July 4. This is Nambé Pueblo’s biggest feast day and it includes dances that take place at the Nambé Falls. Along with the Nambé Lake Recreation Area, Nambé Falls (http://nambefalls.fatcow.com) is a popular venue, where one can experience the uncustomary sensation (for New Mexicans, at least) of mist on one’s face. From the Pueblo entrance, take a short fifteen-minute hike along a trail lined with stately cottonwoods, to reach the waterfall. Once there, hike up the flank of the canyon to enjoy a breathtaking view. Nambé Dam and Lake, located above the Falls, are popular fishing spots, with natural pools where entire families love to gather for a frolic in the cool water. Because it is situated on Pueblo land, the Nambé Lake and Recreation Area is closed at some times during the year, so call ahead: (505) 455-2304. There is an admission fee which allows for sightseeing, hiking, and picnicking. Camping and fishing permits are also available. Nambé Lake Recreation Area’s high season is early April through late October. Do not miss San Ildefonso Pueblo. From Nambé, head northwest on County Rd-119 S toward Vista Herrera, taking a slight right onto County Rd-84G, and a quick left onto County Rd-119 N, which returns you to Cundiyo Road/NM-503. Remain on this road for just under two miles, turning right at North Shining Sun, and right again to return to 285/84. Stay on 285/84for nearly seven miles, turning left onto NM 369 and then left again in just under a mile onto NM 30/5. Within moments you will arrive at the famed San Ildefonso Pueblo. Like many of the Northern New Mexico Pueblos, San Ildefonso endured its share of suffering over the centuries — with occupation, warfare and disease giving way to poverty and general survival difficulties. This Pueblo’s 21st-centure pecuniary fortunes emanate from its gorgeous, signature black-on-black pottery, revived in the 1920s by Maria Martinez and others. Today, San Ildefonso is one of the most popular Pueblo tourist destinations, welcoming more than 20,000 guests each year. Visitors can see the picturesque San Ildefonso Church, or witness the truly breathtaking dances such as the Buffalo, Comanche, Deer Dances, or the January 23 San Ildefonso Pueblo Feast Day. Additionally, the San Ildefonso Pueblo Museum, (505) 455-3549, displays contemporary and traditional pottery, paintings, and other artifacts. Visitors wishing to take non-commercial photography, draw sketches or make audio recordings must inquire at the Visitor’s Center: (505) 455-3549. For a symbolic encounter with the Anasazi ancestors of today’s Pueblo people, it is worth your time to take a detour to the Tsankawi Ruins, (http://www.nps.gov/band/planyourvisit/tsankawi.htm). Tsankawi is a detached part of Bandelier National Monument and the only part of the Monument located within Santa Fe County limits. To reach Tsankawi from San Ildefonso, head southwest on NM-30 for 1 1/2 miles, and merge onto NM-502/State Rd 502 for just over 3 1/2 miles. Exit onto NM 4. After less than a mile, take a sharp left to stay on NM-4. From NM-4, the only markings entrance to Tsankawi is a large gravel parking area adjacent to the highway and a sign on the fence. If you reach the stoplight, you've gone too far. Some find poetic justice in the fact that Tsankawi’s entrance is unmarked. Relying upon natural landmarks does attune one to the natural world, in a way that is congruent with the Anasazi way of life. The 1.5-mile hike along a mesa is the same trail used by ancient Anasazi people and reveals excavated sites and petroglyphs. The trail includes ladders to be climbed, leading to terrific “peekaboo” photo-ops from the cavates (holes in the sandstone surface that were entryways to ancient cliff dwellings for people and fauna). There are also ruins, including the remains of a home and school for indigenous people. Tsankawi trail is exposed to the elements and should be avoided during extremely cold, and wet and slippery weather. The mid-summer monsoon season dictates a visit to Tsankawi earlier in the day before one risks being caught in a mid-afternoon thunderstorm, as these can be quite spectacular and lightning strikes are not unheard of. (Bandelier Visitor Center: (505) 672-3861 ext. 517 or recorded information line: (505) 672-0343). Places to stay in the area: Rancho Jacona (Pojoaque) Hacienda del Cerezo (Tesuque) The Bishop's Lodge (Santa Fe/Tesuque) The Triangle Inn (Tesuque) |