| Into the Wild West |
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This trip back in time, into the Wild West of Santa Fe County, begins with a picturesque drive through Bonanza Creek. Along the way are situated two authentic Western ranches that will interest movie buffs: the JW Eaves Movie Ranch (75 Rancho Alegre Road) and the Bonanza Creek Ranch (15 Bonanza Creek Road). To get to Bonanza Creek Road take NM-599/Santa Fe Relief Route, heading south (towards Albuquerque). Follow this road just over 7 miles, going through the La Cienega overpass entrance to Interstate 25 and arriving on the East Frontage Road. (Alternatively, get on Cerrillos Road heading towards Albuquerque and instead of getting on I-25, take a right exit before the traffic light onto the Frontage Rd. Pass under I-25 to the East Frontage Rd.) Take this south; the first left turn is Bonanza Creek Road. Rancho Alegre is the first left turn, and the Bonanza Creek Ranch is about 7 miles further down the road. The Eaves Ranch is a working movie set, and while visitors can be accommodated by appointment, the main event at Eaves Ranch takes place in June, when the Thirsty Ear Festival (http://www.thirstyearfestival.com) presents three days of musical bacchanalia featuring internationally known reggae, folk, world, and rock music acts for concerts, workshops, and all-around great times. The Thirsty Ear Festival is a rain-or-shine event, and kids under age 12 are free. Bonanza Creek Ranch is a working ranch, visited by appointment only. It is distinctive because unlike on a typical movie set, the buildings here are real structures and not one-sided façades. Call (505) 471-4248 if you would like to stop over and see where many movies from “Man from Laramie,” with Jimmy Stewart, to “Easy Rider,” with Dennis Hopper and Peter Fonda, “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid,” and even “All the Pretty Horses,” with Matt Damon, have been shot. Continue eastward on Bonanza Creek Ranch Road for several miles and you will arrive at NM-14. The Turquoise Trail, http://www.turquoisetrail.org). This road, a National Scenic Byway, epitomizes Santa Fe County’s Old West spirit. If, by this point, you are a hungry varmint, turn left (north) and head up the road a quarter-mile to enjoy breakfast or lunch at San Marcos Café. This terrific little eatery (and feed store for all the neighboring farm and ranch owners) is well-loved for its cinnamon buns, huevos rancheros, and its menagerie of friendly animals who reside on the premises (and entertain children for hours on end, for free). These include ostriches, pea hens, chickens, wild turkeys, and the most-beloved peacocks, who are usually quite obliging about displaying their plumage. The mood and décor inside: rustic and authentically laid-back, with the food served on old fashioned speckled tin plates. For the relaxed atmosphere and the honest, hearty food alike, San Marcos Café is one of the most popular places to meet, greet, and eat in the County. They are not open for dinner, so call for hours: (505) 471-9298. As it heads southwards, The Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway reveals itself as a truly gorgeous scenic road, meandering past stunning rock formations, magnificent rolling hills, and striking residential haciendas that are themselves nestled amongst the juniper and piñon bushes. After several enchanting miles, you will arrive at the Traditional Village of Cerrillos. The name “Cerrillos” means “the little hills” in Spanish, and though the village may look like a near ghost town to the inattentive road-warrior, it is one of those “if these walls could talk” places of the Old West, where Indians, Spaniards, and prospecting Anglos forged a complex and fascinating history over the centuries — with turquoise, lead, zinc, and silver contributing to a compelling lore. Artists, free-spirits, and crusty cowhands enjoy a peaceful, somewhat secluded lifestyle in the Cerrillos area, and even a short visit to this charming village will provide enduring memories. As one approaches Cerrillos, two attractions that beckon the sportsy traveler. First is The Broken Saddle Riding Company (http://www.brokensaddle.com; (505) 424-7774) which offers a variety of riding trips through the scenic hills and canyons surrounding Cerrillos, catering to riders of all levels. From the NM-14 entry to Cerrillos, enter the village and take a right at the first intersection, crossing the railroad tracks and continuing for a quarter of a mile. Take the right fork in the road and an immediate left turn into a gravel parking area in front of the Broken Saddle corral. If you prefer to visit the hillside on foot, the Cerrillos Hills Historic Park (http://www.cerrilloshills.org) can be a satisfying daylong exploration. A thrill for the nature lover and the history buff alike, this 1116-acre park has marked trails, abandoned mines (indicated on the map you can borrow at the entrance; stay on the trails, both for your safety and to protect the vegetation) and an esthetically beautiful sundial called an analemma (http://www.cerrilloshills.org/analemma/analemma.html), a solar calendar which traces the daily variations in the sun’s path along the sky. In the Village of Cerrillos proper, drive past the “Bienvenidos!” (“Welcome!”) sign and follow the hand-carved wooden signs to the The Casa Grande Trading Post and Petting Zoo (http://www.casagrandetradingpost.com/). Located at 17 Waldo St., the Trading Post is an all-adobe structure (over 65,000 hand-made bricks went into its construction), and home to the local Brown family, who also help run the Cerrillos Historic Society. At the Trading Post section of the hacienda, one can find some of the most bona-fide “Old Santa Fe” gifts to be found: antique bottles, old barbed wire, and all manner of artifacts attesting to the ruggedness of life in days gone by. Also for sale is a variety of decorations and jewelry made from local turquoise (which is, in fact, green). At the back of the building is the Turquoise Mining Museum where for a small entrance fee, visitors can explore maps, displays, and 19th and early 20th century antiques, many excavated from Cerrillos and adjacent areas. The proprietors of the Trading Post will even sell you a small bag of feed so the kids can feed the goats, llama, chicks, and other friendly animals at the adjacent Cerrillos Petting Zoo. The Browns seem to always be at the Trading Post, but just in case, their phone number is: (505) 438-3008. During its heyday in the 1880s, Cerrillos was a bustling mining town, with 21 saloons, four hotels, and an Old Opera House. (Opera Houses were the name commonly given to the most upscale entertainment hall in an area, to differentiate them from the more tawdry type of theater.) There remain a few shops and galleries, housed in the original structures, and Saint Joseph’s church, part of the Diocese of Santa Fe, and full of local congregants for Sunday Mass. (505) 471-1562. Among Cerrillos’ commerces, the Lori Musil Gallery (http://www.lorimusil.com) (11 1/2 1st St) specializes in Southwest art and architectural artifacts. (505) 474-5841. If Cerrillos provides a provocative sampling of the Old West, the town of Madrid, (http://www.visitmadridnm.com) located three miles to the south on NM-14, is a full-out crash course in Western boom-town history. The discovery of coal in the 1800’s propelled this fun-loving mountain town to its glorious apex, with vigorous excavators mining shafts as deep as 2500' and supplying coal to the Santa Fe Railroad and the U.S. Government. As with other Western towns, however, the mines eventually dried up, and by the early 1059s, Madrid was depleted and abandoned. Its renaissance arrived in the early 1970s, as an influx of intrepid artists reinvested in Madrid, converting old stores and buildings into a bemusing and beguiling hodgepodge that determinedly rebuke the considerations of “Santa Fe Style.” Right as you enter Madrid, don’t miss a glance to the right: you’ll see Madrid’s historic baseball park. Built in 1922, it was the first illuminated park built west of the Mississippi and home to the old Brooklyn Dodger’s farm team, the Madrid Miners. Today, it remains a venue for summertime concerts and celebrations. Just into town, check out the big Victorian-style building with the wraparound porch. That’s the Old Boarding House Mercantile, Madrid’s General Store, which carries staples, sundries, and even videos for rent to the locals. Just a minute or so down NM-14, the Old Coal Mine Museum http://www.themineshafttavern.com/OldCoalMineMuseum.html) and Engine House Theater (call for dates and hours) (http://www.themineshafttavern.com/EngineHouseTheater.html) provide education and entertainment, respectively. The 2007 hit movie “Wild Hogs” was filmed in Madrid (don’t mention that to the locals if you want to make friends!) and an amusing remnant from that shoot is Maggie’s Main Street Diner (http://www.maggiesdiner.com), a faux General Store that still attracts giddy shutterbugs posing in front of its cinematographically perfect façade. If you prefer to experience Madrid as the Madrillenos do, go have a beer, or a satisfying meal, and maybe hear a local band, at the Mine Shaft Tavern (http://www.themineshafttavern.com). Do not be intimidated by the endless line up of motorcycles parked outside; the Mine Shaft is a quite welcoming place — not surprising for a place that has the longest stand-up bar in New Mexico. Kids are also welcome, especially if they like to boogie. Your inner shopaholic will enjoy sauntering around the galleries and gift shops cozied up next to each other on NM-14 and on Gypsy Plaza, behind the Mine Shaft Tavern. There are also coffee houses and other places to grab a lighter bite to eat. One can spend days in Madrid, slowing easing into the easy lifestyle of the locals. Unlike many other touristy spots in the West, Madrid does not have a “low season.” In fact, December —a month when many old mining towns are shuttered for the winter — is a particularly festive time in Madrid, as the entire town is adorned for the Christmas Lights display. This tradition dates back to Madrid’s mining days, and attracts visitors from all over the Santa Fe area to watch the locals outdo each other’s lights display. One can also enjoy a horse-drawn carriage ride, or get in some last-minute holiday shopping. Approaching the south end of town, there are still more galleries to explore, including Johnson’s Gallery of Madrid (2843 Highway 14). Johnson’s was the first gallery to open in the 1970s. It displays a broad range of contemporary art and presents live concerts of classical music on weekends. Open daily, 10:00-6:00. Right next door, at 2849 Highway 14, there is a recent culinary addition to Madrid: The Hollar, a sunny locality specializing in southern-style cuisine with such yummy fare as grits, po’ boys, lightly battered fried green tomatoes, and a really delectable surprise: deep-fried pickle chips (just trust us and give them a try!) (505) 471-4821. Open Wednesday-Saturday 11:00-3:00 and 5:00-9:00 and Sunday, 11:00-3:00. The West wouldn’t have been “the West” without the advent of the locomotive, so do pay homage to the rails by taking a quick trip to Lamy, the depot for Santa Fe, then and now. To reach Lamy from Madrid, head back north on NM-14, go pass Cerrillos, and take Route 42 and a gorgeous drive to the town of Galisteo. Nestled among the old adobe structures are true artist studios and homes, and if you are fortunate enough to be traveling through on the 3rd week of October, bay all means, take in the Galisteo Studio Tour (http://www.galisteostudiotour.org). A few galleries are open to the public year-round, but call ahead. These include: the Elizabeth Rose Pottery Studio (www.elizabethrosesculpture.com) (505) 466-6003, the Lux Gallery: (505) 466-2121; and the Barbara King Gallery (505) 466-3219), among others. Several local Galisteo artists are in the process of establishing an organization to restore a historic building and create an information center, to greet visitors year-round. Until then, drive past the Priscilla Hobak Gallery (open by appointment: (505) 466-2255), and over the one-lane wooden bridge, taking an immediate right turn after the bridge onto a dirt road. Drive down slowly, park the car, and treat yourself to a little hike along the Galisteo Creek. As with all waterways in Northern New Mexico, its gurgling waters are a welcome sight. Return to the main crossroads (the landmark is the Santa Maria de los Remedios Catholic Church) and turn right onto NM-41. Remain on this road until it meets 285/84 north and following the signs, turn right onto CR-33 to Lamy. The Santa Fe stop on the Chicago-to-Los Angeles Amtrak route, Lamy is a sleepy but charming stopover. Among its attractions is an old Saloon (called “The Legal Tender”), built in 1881 as a General Store, and today experiencing a second life as the Lamy Railroad and History Museum. It is open in the spring and summer on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., and other times by appointment. To schedule a visit, call Tom Boyer at (505) 466-3519 or email at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . The Our Lady of Light Chapel (http://ololhf.org), a Mission-style building from the 1920s, can at present, be enjoyed only from the outside, but a local group is trying to restore it. Meanwhile, cross the street from the Museum to visit the Lamy Train Station Café. Located in a converted 1950s train car, it serves creative cuisine for lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. Many visitors venture to Lamy directly on the tourist train of the Santa Fe Southern Railway that operates between the town and Santa Fe’s Railyard District (http://www.sfsr.com). There is also a Rail Trail, for those who like to hike or bike. It is a rugged 11.5-mile trail, considered of moderate difficulty. Back on 285 north, one may continue and merge onto Interstate 25 north, taking exit 299 (Glorieta/Pecos Exit) and then turning left onto NM-50 to reach the town of Glorieta, where the Civil War’s Battle of Glorieta Pass was fought from March 26–28, 1862. Called the "Gettysburg of the West" by some, this battle culminated in Union victory and represented a turning point of the Civil War. Accessible through Pecos National Park http://www.nps.gov/peco) is the new Battle of Glorieta Pass monument. Call Pecos Park for more info. Many Pecos locals swear by Renate’s Restaurant (if one can imagine eating another bite!) run by a cheerful Austrian expatriate (505)757-2626). Otherwise, head back onto I-25 South, take exit 290 and turn right onto US-285/84, and a quick left onto the Old Las Vegas Highway. Three terrific dining choices are located on this road: The newly opened Real Food Nation (http://www.realfoodnation.biz), an inviting, family-friendly operation focused on creative, sustainable and local foods. Located at 624 Old Las Vegas Highway, they are open for dining in or take out, Tuesday to Friday 7:30 am to 7:30 pm, and Saturday 8:00am to 3:00pm. One mile down 285/84, towards Santa Fe, at 420 Old Las Vegas Highway, the award-winning Bobcat Bite Restaurant (http://www.bobcatbite.com), is a burger lovers dream-come-true, serving specialties including a green chile burger that is said to even tempt vegetarians. (505) 983-5319. Bobcat Bite has been family owned since 1953 and is open 11:00am to 7:50pm Wednesday-Saturday, and also on Tuesdays in the summer. Harry’s Roadhouse, at 96 Old Las Vegas Highway, is a favorite gathering place for locals, with excellent food, just-about-perfect margaritas, sinful desserts, and an almost-always full house. (505) 989-4629. Harry’s food is so legendary around these parts that a cookbook has been dedicated to its cuisine and “happening scene.” Places to stay in the area: Crystal Mesa Farm B&B (Cerrillos) Hacienda Doña Andrea (Cerrillos) Heart Seed B&B (Cerrillos) High Feather Ranch B&B(Between Cerrillos and Madrid) Santa Fe Skies RV Park (Hwy 14) Lodging in Madrid Bobcat Inn |