| Spanish Santa Fe County |
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Even many New Mexicans don’t know that theirs is one of two U.S. States who, by Constitutional declaration, are officially bilingual. (The other is California.) This fact testifies to the central role that the Spaniards played in the New Mexico’s history, and the profundity of the living Hispanic culture one can experience within Santa Fe County. The history of New Mexico since the 15th century having largely been a story of Spanish inroads into lands long-settled by Native peoples, it is no surprise that a tour of Spanish Santa Fe County brings us alongside many of the areas visited on our Pueblo Santa Fe County itinerary. Gabriel’s Restaurant (http://www.restauranteur.com/gabriels/index.htm), located on NM-285/84, about five minutes north of the Santa Fe Opera exit, reinforces the culinary link between Spain and New Mexico (via Old Mexico) serving some of the most authentic and delicious Mexican and Southwestern food around, including guacamole theatrically mixed at your table, a variety of margaritas, sizzling fajitas and a great deal more. It is not uncommon to find large families celebrating a birthday, graduation, or other event here.The proprietors also manage Gabriel’s Gallery (http://www.gabrielgallery.com/main.html) showcasing Southwestern art. From Old Mexico, delve even further back in time, heading up to the Village of Chimayó (http://Chimayó .org). Settled by Spanish colonists after the Pueblo revote of 1680-1692, Chimayó represents, to many, the heart of Spanish Northern New Mexico. To reach the village, turn north onto NM-284/85 for 2 miles, then turn right onto County Rd 88/La Puebla Road for just under three miles, and turn right onto NM-76/Santa Cruz Road. Route 76 is a delightful drive, sprinkled with shops and roadside stands presenting a Spanish weaving tradition introduced by the Conquistadores in 1630. Hand-made in a traditional style (no two weavings are ever alike), with a distinctive two-stripe-and center-diamond-designed pattern, Chimayó weavings have in recent years become increasingly sought after for the quality and beauty of the craftsmanship. Two of the most famous weaving shops are Centinela Traditional Arts (http://www.Chimayó weavers.com), (946 State Road 76 ) (505) 351-2180 and Trujillos’ Weaving Shop (State Road 76 and Country Road 98) (505-351-4457), and in Chimayó itself, Ortega’s Weaving Shop (corner of State Road 76 and County Road 98. (505) 351-4215). From Trujillo’s Weaving Shop continue north on CR-76 for about four miles, and then turn right at Juan Media Road and left at Santuario Drive to visit the world renowned “Holy Shrine of Santuario de Nuestro Senor de Esquipulas,” commonly known as El Santario de Chimayó (www.holyChimayó .us). Were you to be driving towards the Village of Chimayó on Good Friday, you would be sharing the road not with the customary cyclist, but with thousands of pilgrims making their annual journey of foot to the Santuario. From single walkers to entire families, the devout from as far away as Albuquerque and Taos do this walk, braving the elements, walking overnight, and carrying crucifixes, some of which are impressively massive. On Good Friday, it is not uncommon to see as many as 2,000 faithful gathered at the Santuario, quite a testimony to the enduring faith of Northern New Mexican Catholics. Part of the Archdiocese of Santa Fe and often called “The Lourdes of North America,” “El Santuario” (The Shrine) was built between l8l4 and l8l6, and centers on a tale of religious devotion handed down from generation to generation. According to the story, one Good Friday, a Spanish friar saw a light emanating from the ground, and, digging with his bare hands, revealed a Crucifix, which was carried in a processional back to the nearby church in Santa Cruz, and placed on the main altar. Surprisingly the next day, the Crucifix had disappeared from the church and was found back at the original spot where it had be dug up. A second, and eventually, third, procession returned the Crucifix to Santa Cruz, but each time, it showed up again in the original location. The friars then understood the Crucifix “wanted” to be in its original location, and a chapel was subsequently built. Even before the construction of the church, many faithful pilgrims have traveled to Chimayó from far and wide, citing miraculous healings of their illnesses. A the rear of the chapel is a small room called the "Room of Miracles." A round hole in the floor contains sand that the devout will scoop up, rub onto their bodies, onto photos of ailing loved ones too weak to travel, and in some cases, even eat. The miraculous healing power of this sand is an attested to on the walls of the Santuario, where letters, photographs, baby shoes, and other testimonials of thanksgiving are posted. Even outside of Holy Week, El Santuario is one of the most visited churches in the United States. It is open for visitors from 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. October through April, and 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. June through September. Sunday mass at noon, and weekly masses at 11:00 June-September and 7:00 a.m. October-May. Special masses, pilgrimages, concerts, and benedictions take place throughout the year, in accordance with Catholic Holy Days and Pueblo Feast Days. Across the street from El Santuario is Leona’s Restaurant, a small but immensely popular eatery where you can order traditional Northern New Mexico food to go or relax at a table or outside bench. Leona’s specializes in tamales and tortillas and other traditional Northern New Mexico dishes such as carne adovada, hand-held burritos, posole, chile stew, frito pies, nachos and biscochitos, an anise-flavored butter cookie. They also sell tortillas, sauces, and other goods to go. Leona’s is open daily except Tuesdays and Wednesdays from 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM. 505-351-4569. “Chimayó ” derives its name from a Tewa Indian word meaning “superior red flaking stone,” and it is such a peaceful and restful locale that many visitors choose to spend a few days relaxing here. Tourists from all over, as well as locals, look forward to late summer 2009, when the magnificent Rancho de Chimayó (http://www.ranchodeChimayó .com) reopens after nearly two-years of renovations. (505) 351-2222. This stunning Old Spanish hacienda had been in the family for eleven generations, with guest rooms exquisitely decorated with antique furnishings, Chimayó weavings, and other amenities exemplifying the “Old Santa Fe Style.” Its Rancho de Chimayó Restaurant is a culinary destination in and of itself, offering fine Northern New Mexican comidas nativas, American steakhouse cuisine, and a good selection of vegetarian offerings, in an utterly charming setting. (505) 351-4444. Having witnessed how New Mexicans of Spanish origin worship, weave, dine and relax, it is time to head due south and see what their Colonial forebears’ day-to-day existence was like. For such an experience, no venue in Northern New Mexico can beat El Rancho de las Golandrinas (“Ranch of the Swallows,” in Spanish) (http://www.golondrinas.org), a fascinating living history museum located on 200 acres and dedicated to the heritage and culture of Spanish Colonial New Mexico. In addition to the original colonial buildings that have sat on the site since the early 18th century, other historic buildings from have been reconstructed there. On certain days, volunteers clothed in 18th century garb provide demonstrations of domestic and agricultural activities at the hacienda. In May, an annual Civil War Festival re-enacts the historic battles that took place in the area. El Rancho de las Golandrinas is closed November-March. In April, May and October, docent-guided tours are available by appointment: call 505-473-4169. The regular season is June-September, when El Rancho is open Wednesday through Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. One special tour, catering to young girls who are fans of the “American Girls” book and dolls, is the “Josefina” tour. You’ll learn all Maria Josefina Montoya growing up on her family's New Mexican rancho in 1824. “Josefina” tours are offered at 9:30 a.m. on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from June through September. Reservations must be made in advance with the Tour Office, (505) 473-4169. Finally, shoppers should take note that El Rancho has one of the most interesting and best-priced gift shops of any Santa Fe-area attraction. An outdoor cafeteria serves burgers and such during the high season. To get to Las Golandrinas, take Interstate 25 south from town, to exit 276. Turn right, headed north on NM 599 (Santa Fe Bypass). Take the first left at the light (West Frontage Road); and remain about one half-mile on this road, turning right onto Los Piños Road. El Rancho de las Golandrinas is located 3.2 miles down Los Piños on the left-hand side of the road. Places to stay in the area: Casa Escondida (Chimayó) - http://casaescondida.com. “Rustic elegance” in beautiful Chimayó Valley – (505) 351-4805 Rancho Manzana (Chimayó ) (http://www.ranchomanzana.com). A cozy, eco-friendly B&B with a cooking school (505) 351-2227 Hacienda del Cerezo (Tesuque) The Bishop's Lodge (Santa Fe/Tesuque) The Triangle Inn (Tesuque) Sunrise Springs Resort and Spa |